There are few cities where fashion, design, food and hospitality feel quite so interconnected as Milan. Throughout the city, both its buildings and people have a sense of style that feels considered, confident and understated – Nadia Walford takes us inside The Carlton Milan to discover its distinctly Milanese sense of place…
The Carlton’s story is one of reinvention. First opened in 1963 as the Baglioni Hotel Carlton, during Italy’s postwar boom, the property was for many years considered one of the city’s most prestigious hotel addresses. Over the decades, however, it began to show its age, with infrastructure and interiors increasingly in need of an overhaul.
In 2020, the property was taken over by Rocco Forte Hotels, making it the company’s tenth Italian address. Following a five-year, €60-million renovation, the hotel reopened in November 2025 in time for the Winter Olympics.
Image credit: The Carlton Milan
Today, this grand dame stands out as a quietly glamourous property, with 71 suites and rooms, two restaurants, a bar, and a serene spa, all set in one of the city’s most prestigious locations, with an entrance on Via della Spiga, Milan’s famous luxury shopping street. The Duomo, Teatro La Scala, and Brera, the city’s historic artistic and bohemian neighbourhood are all within easy walking distance making it a great base from which to explore the city.
Designed by architects Philip Vergeylen and Paolo Moschino, the extensive renovation was carried out under the creative direction of Olga Polizzi, the group’s Deputy Chair and Director of Design. Together they have given this long-established Milanese residence a serious glow-up, bringing its original character into a more contemporary setting.
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- Image credit: The Carlton, Milan
Throughout the hotel there are references to Art Deco, alongside original artworks and antiques sourced from Polizzi’s travels. Curated objects are dotted throughout adding a sense of character, while the public spaces feel relatively low key, with palettes of warm neutrals, ochre, cream and natural stone. A bespoke fragrance by Italian perfumery Campomarzio70 wafts pleasantly throughout the property.
After a week switching off at Mandali, a retreat centre set just outside Milan overlooking Lake Orta, I’d become used to my monastic chic living quarters and having endless nature on my doorstep. Before heading back to London, I’d booked an overnight stop at The Carlton Milan to help me ease back into ‘normal’ life. My stay here marked a distinct change of scene and pace – a polished return to bustling city life that I was ready to plug back into.
Image credit: The Carlton Milan
I was lucky enough to stay in one of the hotel’s Deluxe Suites, great for longer stays (and for families if you choose one with connecting doors). My suite felt both classic and current, with rich tones of burgundy, sage and gold, alongside graphic rugs, leather headboards, geometric detailing and bespoke furniture, showcasing Italian craftsmanship. Soft beige walls were adorned with abstract canvases and distinctive photography of the city’s landmarks, while my view looked out over the lively Via della Spiga. There was certainly no shortage of space here either, by city-hotel standards, with a separate living area where I could lounge around in my Pedersoli bathrobe and fluffy slippers, making the most of in-room comforts, including a smart TV, Bose speakers, well-designed glassware, Ginori mugs, Illy espresso machine and well-stocked minibar, complete with everything needed to make a Negroni.
My generously sized bedroom was centred around a king-size bed, with a comfortable mattress and soft bed linen and, as a light sleeper, the ‘perfect’ pillows that passed my very particular test! The marble bathroom came complete with a large bathtub and separate walk-in shower, stocked with soothing Irene Forte products made with ingredients from the family’s property in Sicily including pistachio, almond and prickly pear.
Image credit: The Carlton Milan
The Carlton’s F&B offering is overseen by Fulvio Pierangelini, Rocco Forte Hotels’ creative director of food, whose approach is based on refined simplicity and seasonal ingredients.
Café Floretta, probably my favourite spot in the hotel, is bursting with charm and the perfect place to settle in for all-day dining. Drenched in natural light, the informal space has the feel of a greenhouse-inspired winter garden, set beneath a glass-domed ceiling. Breakfast is impressive, with a generous buffet of fresh pastries, breads, cereals, cold cuts, cheeses, fruits, nuts and more, as well as a generous à la carte menu. Choose from eggs as you like them, or more signature dishes such as omelette carbonara or sausage with creamy polenta. Needless to say, this meal did not disappoint!
The hotel’s main restaurant, Spiga, is the more formal of the two dining spaces, offering a refined take on Italian cuisine. Inspired by the atmosphere of 1970s Milan, the interiors feature panelled leather walls, emerald velvet banquettes, muted pink chairs, crisp white tablecloths and artwork by contemporary Milanese artist, Pierantonio Verga. The menu is impressive and great for a special celebration, with fresh, seasonal, and classic Italian flavours, complemented by an excellent wine selection.
Image credit: The Carlton Milan
The Carlton Bar pays homage to Italy’s aperitivo culture, with signature creations by renowned mixologist Salvatore Calabrese, also known as The Maestro. The cocktail menu takes inspiration from different decades of Milanese life, alongside more creative signatures. Bar snacks are sophisticated, including oysters with martini-inspired sorbet and crispy rice topped with red prawn tartare.
The hotel’s outdoor spaces are another draw here. The Carlton Garden is designed to open onto the street, where you can enjoy alfresco dining, cocktails and people-watching.
Beneath the hotel you’ll find the Irene Forte Spa, a compact but beautifully designed space with three treatment rooms, a gym equipped with Technogym equipment, a Finnish sauna, steam room, experience shower and relaxation areas. Spa treatments range from traditional massages, body treatments and facials using Irene Forte Skincare products, the natural Italian beauty brand founded by Rocco Forte’s daughter, to more high-tech options including LED, microcurrent and radiofrequency therapies. I opted for a Peptide Power Smoothing Facial which was quite possibly one of the best I’ve had, leaving my skin feeling smoother, brighter and more revived than ever. There is also a dedicated nail salon and the Forte Vita Bar where time-poor guests can book express facials and beauty treatments.
Image credit: The Carlton Milan
The Carlton Milan feels like a hotel that belongs in Milan. The renovation has given this long-established address a new lease of life, while retaining enough of its history and character to make it stand out from the crowd. The design, food and service reflect the high standards typically expected from a Rocco Forte hotel, while the location is hard to beat. And the restaurants, bar and spa – well, they give you plenty of reason to linger. As Sir Rocco Forte himself remarked when the hotel opened, Milan had become “one of the most vibrant centres in Europe” and The Carlton was to be “a chic new watering hole for the conoscenti and Milan’s most sophisticated clientele.” Having experienced it for myself, I’d say he wasn’t wrong.
